A few months ago, several Napa wineries made their way to Southern California to offer some of their wines for sampling by buyers for retail stores and restaurants, as well as a few lucky members of the press.
Held at tony Fashion Island in Newport Beach, about 30 wineries poured some tasty examples of why the buyers should be purchasing their vino. Let me tell you about some of the highlights.
Perchance is one of many ventures featuring Mike Smith as the winemaker. It’s tiny, barely producing 1,000 cases of wine overall. And, because Mike Smith is involved, this relatively new winery has access to some of the finest fruit available, including Beckstoffer’s vineyards of To Kalon, Georges III, Melrose and Carneros.
Perchance’s 2022 Beckstoffer To Kalon Cabernet Sauvignon is a force of nature. It’s a little deceiving as I’d expect a wine with this much punch to present as black as the abyss. It’s actually medium red, but quite full bodied. Featuring dark fruit and needing time to open up, this is an ideal wine for that tomahawk steak you want to enjoy on a special occasion.
A powerhouse from the event was Tierra Roja’s 2021 Cabernet Sauvignon. Not surprising, since the winery’s neighbors include Screaming Eagle, Dalla Valle’s Maya and Joseph Phelp’s Bacchus. Linda Neal bought the vineyard in 1987. Recently, Ms. Neal teamed up with Benoit Touquette as a consulting winemaker.
The 2021 is a result of that team of Neal and Touquette. It’s intoxicating. I got mint and dirt on the nose. It’s a muscular wine with well-balanced tannins and a delightful acidity. The cabernet sauvignon is the only wine offered, and it’s in minuscule proportions of a mere 250 cases.
Another small winery present was Roy Estate. They poured two vintages of their Mr. Evans blend. The 2019 vintage is composed of 65% cabernet sauvignon, 24% merlot, and 11% petit verdot. What a lovely wine! It coated my mouth. Full bodied and luscious with mint notes, this was a pleasurable discovery. They also poured the 2016, with virtually the same varietals with the same percentages. You can envision how the 2019 will evolve by tasting the 2016. While the tastes are similar, the 2016 has mellowed and come together for an inviting package.
If you are looking for a Bordeaux-fashion wine that is under $100, then try Pride Mountain’s 2021 Merlot. Sitting 2,000 feet above Napa Valley, Pride Mountain is an 85-acre winery in the Mayacamas Mountains. Consequently, it receives more sunshine than the valley floor, but, because of its elevated location, it enjoys a cooler climate, lengthening the ripening process.
I’ve heard reports that that one line from the movie “Sideways” (you know the one I’m talking about – where Miles adamantly refuses to drink any merlot) resulted in a gut punch to all merlot producers in California. But thankfully they’ve gotten over that. Thus, I had the opportunity to taste Pride’s 2021 offering of that varietal. While tannic (it’s still a young wine after all), it’s quite drinkable. With strong notes of very ripe raspberries and black cherries, this was a delight. Given that Pride makes about 5,000 cases of this, you should be able to find it.
By the way, I’ve written several times about my experiences with the Napa Valley Barrel Auction. A wonderful opportunity to experience much of what Napa has to offer. This year’s event runs June 6-7. Just as I’ve advised you on similar events, these kinds of tastings are an excellent introduction to Napa and all it has to offer. For the price of admission you can sample thousands of dollars’ worth of wine and decide how to invest your wine dollars.
Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker. He is certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust at Level II with distinction.




