By Melanie Johnson
Only in Your State
What do an obscure pyramid, a quaint chapel, a large sundial, a museum of human existence and an isolated, desert community in Southern California have in common? They’re located in the tiny town of Felicity, one of the most fascinating roadside attractions in Southern California. My curiosity for the unknown has led me to this unexpected destination.
Here, you’ll find the Official Center of the World and the History of Humanity in Granite Museum. Immediately capturing my sense of adventure, this quirky town in the Sonoran Desert is full of mystery, magic and has the perfect dose of whimsy. It’s the kind of destination where you’ll “arrive intrigued,” but “leave inspired.” And it’s certainly worth a detour on your next road trip through Southern California.
When French-born entrepreneur, banker, parachute pioneer, and Marine Corps veteran, Jacques-André Istel, wrote his children’s book, “Coe: The Good Dragon at the Center of the World,” who knew it would lead to an official designation of the Center of the World? Apparently, he did, and here we are. The site, located in the town of Felicity, named after his wife Felicia, was legally recognized by Imperial County in 1985. Unexpectedly, the Institut Géographique National in France has also acknowledged this unique designation.
After purchasing the barren land near the Arizona border in 1985, Istel became the official mayor, voted in by his wife and the imaginary dragon from his novel. And in case you’re wondering, the officials of the county accepted the vote of the fairytale character. In the words of famed scientist Albert Einstein, “Logic will get you from A to B. Imagination will take you everywhere.” Obviously, Istel saw the logic in purchasing land in the middle of the desert, but it was his imagination that truly made this place magical. Today, Felicity stands as a whimsical destination where fantasy and reality collide.
The actual geological center of the world is in a town in Turkey, but it’s safe to say it lacks the vision and character of Felicity. An attraction for all ages, the town invites visitors to explore, learn and embrace what’s possible. Inside stands a 21-foot-tall pink granite pyramid with a bronze plaque in the middle, marking the exact spot for the center of the world. As part of the experience, you’ll watch a video before entering the pyramid, then you’ll touch the spot and make a wish. Some believe that the Universe will listen, while others treat it as part of the fun. You’ll then receive an official certificate to remember your time here. There is no wrong or right, just let your imagination be your guide.
Other attractions include the Chapel of the Desert, a small religious sanctuary situated atop a 35-foot man-made hill. The iconic cream-colored structure with its turquoise blue door stands out against the muted colors of the desert. You’ll also find the Maze of Honor, a labyrinth of personal messages etched in granite, a 25-foot staircase from the original Eiffel Tower, a 15-foot bronze sundial, fashioned after the Arm of God from Michelangelo’s Sistine Chapel and more.
Most impressive and arguably the coolest part of Felicity is the Museum of History in Granite, created by Istel for future generations, designed to last 4,000 years. A first-of-its-kind museum, the site is built using 20 100-foot triangular granite structures etched with the history of significant aspects of humanity. Currently, there are over 1,000 hand-etched illustrations with more being added over time, making this “granite history book” a living time capsule.
The layout of the town with the sundial, the pyramid, the center of the museum, the Felicity Stone (a granite stone etched with various languages) and the chapel are perfectly aligned, it makes me wonder if Martinez is on to something. Plus, the geometrical design of the museum and monuments further adds to this theory. This is part of the fun of visiting the Center of the World: your curiosity becomes your guide.
On our road trips, the detours are always the best part of the journey. So, if you find yourself driving from California to Arizona on Interstate 8, and you see the sign for the Center of the World, carve out time for this bucket-list-worthy adventure. As Martinez declares, “If you want to have an extraordinary, one-of-a-kind experience, plan a trip to Felicity.”
Some things to keep in mind when visiting the Official Center of the World:
For the full experience, including a brief video, a guided tour and access to the Center of the World, plan your visit between November and April 30.
Self-guided tours of the town and museum are available from May to October. And, while the town is open seven days per week, hours vary depending on when you visit
Keep in mind, Felicity is in the desert, so wear comfy clothing, especially if you visit during the warmer months. Admission is $10 for adults and $5 for kids. Little ones under 5 are free. (Only in California)
