Last week I had the distinct pleasure of spending an afternoon at Arrow & Branch Winery in Napa. They have some unique relationships with several other wineries.
You see, besides producing their own award-winning wines, they also provide a custom crush facility for rather small wineries, as well as co-host tasting rooms with other wineries.
I went up specifically to meet with DJ Warner, co-owner of noted Keplinger Winery. His wife, Helen Keplinger, has been the winemaker at several respected wineries, such as Kenzo Estate, Arrow & Branch, and Bryant Family Vineyard. In 2006, Helen and DJ opened their own eponymous winery to great acclaim.
Critics such as Antonio Galloni of Vinous (and previously of Wine Advocate) have raved about Helen’s wines, saying, “The wines were so breathtaking.” Vinous also named her 2023 Winemaker of the Year. So, naturally, I was drawn to an opportunity to not only taste the Keplinger oeuvre but also Arrow & Branch, as well as a select grouping of other wineries.
Up until a few years ago, Helen purchased all of the fruit for her wines. But then she and DJ decided to buy about 20 acres in Paso Robles (quite a shift from mainly Napa vineyards). But then she has had considerable success with Rhone varietals, so Paso, being the home for syrah, grenache, mourvèdre, etc., was a natural for her.
First up was the first bottling from Keplinger’s Paso venture, a 2025 rosé, a blend of mourvèdre and cinsault. In a word, “Wow!” As I’ve said before, generally I am not a fan of rosés. Often, they don’t offer much more than something that tastes like light alcohol, lacking structure, dimension, or any distinctive flavors. Not so the Keplinger Rosé. It’s bright, refreshing, with an excellent balance of fruit and acidity. The color, as its name implies, is a light red, you know, a rosé. With both strawberry taste and nose, the wine was delightful. I asked several of the other visitors about their favorite wine being poured that day and many said the Keplinger Rosé.
The next was the 2023 Detert Cabernet Franc. Another hit. A great bouquet of dark fruit and forest floor that arose from the glass. The color was an inky black. And then the tastes. Plum and ripe blackberry and almost a little meaty. It featured a long finish. This would match ideally with some slow-grilled baby back ribs.
The 2023 Vine Hill Cabernet Sauvignon has a reticent nose. A dark red with great legs. I got not only a strong raspberry flavor, but also notes of tobacco. A delightful wine that lingers on the palate.
Then, for me, the hit of the Keplinger offering was the 2018 Lithic, a grenache, syrah and mourvèdre blend. Pouring an 8-year-old GSM can be risky. If not well made, they can become vegetal or mushroomy, tasting of wet socks. Not a delightful experience. But Helen’s GSM started showing off immediately, with a bright, fruity aroma. Even though there is still a little tannin (which gives it the structure a bold GSM needs), it’s still quite approachable. Flavors of licorice and cherry. Magnificent.
And big news for Santa Clarita wine fans. Helen and DJ have graciously offered to host an evening, pouring many of their acclaimed wines right here in Valencia at Salt Creek Grille on Thursday, Aug. 27. Even better, all of the proceeds from that night go to the Santa Clarita Valley Boys & Girls Club. Check with the B&G Club to get tickets.
I will discuss the other wines I enjoyed that afternoon in my next column.
Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker. He is certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust at Level II with distinction.
