Following up on my last column on the extensive and vibrant Barrel Auction Tasting on May 31: Extensive, as there were over 100 wineries pouring. Vibrant, as there were close to a thousand fellow tasters with Terry and me. And everyone was enjoying the wines on offer.
We tasted from about 40 wineries. A commentary on each one would take several columns, so I’ll limit it to the truly special ones, done alphabetically.
First, Arkenstone’s 2023 Red Blend, a combination of cabernet sauvignon, cabernet Franc, petit verdot and malbec, with fruit from Howell Mountain. The wine will age for a total of 22 months in 100% new French oak, and then bottle aged for an additional year prior to it being released. Winemaker Sam Kaplan poured for us. This was one of just three wines we placed bids on, so, obviously, it was one of our favorites. An outstanding, well-balanced Bordeaux creation, it’s well-balanced now, quite drinkable. That’s kind of amazing, since we were sampling when it likely would be its most tannic. Nonetheless, it was well-finessed, with a long finish of its blackberry and cherry flavors.
Prior to the tasting, I did my homework. Far Niente Wine Estates consists of some landmark wineries, such as Far Niente and Nickel & Nickel. Bella Union, one of the newest members of this family, and its winemaker, Brooke Bobyak Price, have been receiving rave reviews for Bella Union’s wines. Consistent with this history is the 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, hailing from three vineyards from Rutherford. Aged for 18 months in French oak barrels (80% new); an average of 15 to 20 days of skin contact, it’s delicious and complex, featuring dark, flavorful fruit.
Next up came the 2023 Hourglass Estate Cabernet Sauvignon. Presenting a smoky, leather bouquet, the wine has some tannin that should relax in about five years. The St. Helena fruit expresses earthy, mushroom notes with blackberry tastes. Well-balanced, approachable, and a long finish. Winemaker Jeff Smith, who was also the chair of the Barrel and Live Auction Event, poured some tasty stuff.
Russell Bevan of the Lerner Project presented its 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon Sage Ridge Vineyard. Such a smooth wine, with tannins doing their proper job, providing texture and complexity to the whole picture. The wine spotlights the dark, red fruit that also carries tastes of black licorice.
The 2023 Nickel & Nickel, like its sister winery, Bella Union, a 2023 Cabernet Sauvignon, stars fruit from the John C. Sullenger Vineyard in Oakville. With a minty nose, the wine tastes like dark chocolate with leather notes. Very smooth and tasty.
We conclude with the 2022 Silverado Vineyards GEO, a cabernet sauvignon from Coombsville. Named for the root word for earth, the GEO vineyard represents the best cabernet from this extraordinary site, according to winemaker Alison Rodriguez. Disney sold the winery to Bill Foley about two years ago, with Alison staying on. What a great wine! Baking spices, such as cinnamon and nutmeg, on the nose; blackberry and cherry flavors. We got to this one late in the day, after sampling 30 or more wines. So, the fact that it stood out and was so notable that we bought a case of it speaks to what great potential this wine has.
Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker.
