Photo ID’s: 1) Hugo Bernard of Domaine de Chevalier; 2) Stephan von Neipperg of Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere; and 3) Marie-Helene Faurie of Chateau Brane-Cantenac. Photos courtesy of Carl Kanowsky
As a seminarian (yes, I flirted for a few years with the concept of being an ordained cleric, but giving up women was a bridge too far), I recall going to St. Vibiana’s in Downtown Los Angeles as it was the cathedral for the archdiocese back in the day. But its relatively small size and significant damage done in the 1994 earthquake resulted in the archdiocese deciding to move its headquarters to a new location near the Music Center in the late 1990s.
The invitation to the Union des Grands Crus de Bordeaux Tasting on Jan. 24 identified the location as Vibiana. Seeing that, I wondered if it was near St. Vibiana. I entered the building hosting the tasting. I saw a large open area filled with tables for the numerous chateaux that were pouring that day. The room has a high vaulted ceiling with a raised staging area in the back. Security confirmed my suspicions – this was the actual old cathedral, which had been essentially gutted.
The location seemed appropriate as folks have been drinking wine there for almost two centuries. I considered myself fortunate to be able to continue the tradition.
The UGC Tasting is an annual opportunity for Bordeaux lovers to sample the recently bottled vintage from that area. Even though the number of chateaux at the event has shrunk over the years, several fine wineries continue to attend.
Attending the UGC for about a dozen years, I have gained an appreciation for two styles of wine that I might have bypassed but for the UGC, white Bordeaux and Sauternes. I already knew that I loved what the French do with cabernet sauvignon and merlot, but I had little realization of what treats Bordeaux whites and sweet wines can be.
Domaine de Chevalier regularly creates one of my favorites in both the red and white category, but most especially the white. The 2021 was no disappointment. It’s bracing and vibrant, with notes of stone fruit and an inviting well-balanced acidic finish. Composed of 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon, it was the best white there. The red, 63% cabernet sauvignon, 30% merlot, also shone. Tannic (which is what you expect on a young red Bordeaux), with blackberry and leather.
Two other delightful white Bordeaux come from Pape Clement and Smith Haut Lafitte.
Two other red offerings stood out.
Stephan Von Neipperg represented Chateau Canon La Gaffeliere, which is in the Saint-Emilion, an appellation best known for its merlot offerings. The always exquisitely dressed M. Von Neipperg has managed the chateau since 1983. He has crafted something magnificent from the 2021 vintage, a blend of 50% merlot, 40% cabernet Franc and 10% cabernet sauvignon. “We are looking for balance and harmony, not over-oaked wine,” he told me. Well, he achieved that with this exceptionally well-balanced wine, which is surprisingly drinkable now with its tasty tones.
I came to Chateau Brane-Cantenac late in the tasting, after having sampled some 30 or so wines. You know that a wine must be unique if, after tasting so many other offerings, this one stands out. Located in the Margaux appellation, Brane-Cantenac’s 2021 vintage is a blend of 74% cabernet sauvignon and 22% merlot. Marie-Helene Faurie, Brane-Cantenac’s commercial director, poured my taste. Outstanding bold flavor, with delectable raspberry flavors. While it’s quite tasty now, give it at least eight years and it will evolve into a true treasure.
Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker.
