I must apologize. I’ve been remiss in writing my wine columns. But, I have a great excuse. Beginning on March 13, Terry and I became grandparents for the first time. Little Sophia has laid siege to my heart, having overwhelmed me from the second I met her. Now I understand what my friends who have grandkids say about it being uniquely special.
My returning column focuses on how generous winemakers can be. A few years ago, I wrote about Mark Pisoni and the winery he owns with his dad and brother, Pisoni Vineyards. His father, Gary Pisoni, 42 years ago took a leap of faith in spearheading the pinot noir adventure in California. He joined with his neighbor, Gary Franscioni of Roar Winery, in establishing Garys’ Vineyard, which the Wall Street Journal has declared “one of the most famous vineyards in California.”
For the past few decades, Mark has been tending the vines of Garys’, as well as those of Soberanes, Pisoni, Susan’s Hill, and all other farming done there. I was so taken by all of the wines offered by Pisoni (sold under the labels of Pisoni, Lucia, and Lucy), that I asked Mark if he would like to share them with 75 of my fellow wine lovers here in Santa Clarita. When I told him that all proceeds raised would go to the Santa Clarita Valley Boys & Girls Club, he immediately said yes.
Mark agreed to provide all of the wine as well as additional bottles to be offered at a brief live auction that night.
So, I went to my good friend and past SCV Man of the Year, Greg Amsler, proprietor of Salt Creek Grille. He has generously hosted more than a dozen such wine tastings for the B&G Club over the years. I asked him if we could impose on him again.
Without hesitation, he agreed and got his chief collaborator, Jennifer Chadwick (in my estimation, she’s the one who creates the magic). He also enlisted his Executive Chef Ignacio Munoz. That man is a culinary expert.
With the alliance of Mark, Greg, Jennifer and Ignacio, March 5 became an inconceivable joining of geniuses, all to serve the youth of Santa Clarita.
Ignacio has the skill not to simply make delicious food, but to pair it with wines that result in each being even more amazing. He accomplished this feat on March 5.
Things that sound simple were prepared with a twist that made the sum greater than its parts. Such as, toast/aged sharp white cheddar/Fuji apple Pisoni Family Honey. Ignacio took some of the honey Mark’s bees produce and paired it with the 2022 Lucy Rosé of Pinot Noir. This was the first appetizer, providing a preview of an evening of delicious food and first-class wine. As I have said before, I’m not a big fan of rosés, but this one has some character and substance. It worked beautifully with the cheese/apple/honey combination.
The second course was beets/quinoa/kale/grilled pear/pecans/feta/Champagne vinaigrette. With it came the 2022 Lucy Pico Blanco, a blend of 85% pinot gris and pinot blanc. What a wine – bracing, stony, and elegantly dry. And the food was another masterpiece, a creative blend of elements. I see no value in quinoa. Yeah, it’s supposed to be healthy, but I like my food to taste good. But in this dish, the strengths of quinoa (such as they are) worked well with the fruit, nuts and beets. Terry turns her nose up at beets, but she cleaned her plate on this version. Greg, I’d pay to have this again. Please put it on the menu.
Mark then poured the 2019 Pisoni Estate Pinot Noir to go with the filet mignon Wellington. Pisoni makes only a tiny amount of this wine annually. The winery only offers it to longtime customers. You can’t go to the winery and order it. But Mark really wanted to support the Boys & Girls Club, so he poured that for us. Robert Parker said this about another vintage of this wine: “An absolutely stunning fireworks display of aromatics emerges when the nose gets close to the glass of this dense ruby/purple-colored wine.” I couldn’t say it any better. It’s graced with an exquisite balance of acid and fruit. And it was a delight with the medium rare filet mignon.
On behalf of the Boys & Girls Club, thank you to Mark, Greg, Jennifer and Ignacio. We raised almost $25,000 in one night, all going to help SCV’s youth.
Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker.
