Since my last column, it does not appear that things are looking up for the wine industry. As I reported before, harvest for California wines has declined significantly.
On Nov. 24, 2025, Reuters reported, “The French Agriculture Ministry said … it would give the wine industry additional support of 130 million euros ($149.80 million) for the further uprooting of vines, to guard against excessive output.” Wineries will receive €4,000 for each hectare of vines removed.
Vinetur reports that, as a result of this program, French wineries have already uprooted 28,000 hectares (or almost 70,000 acres) of vines. Unfortunately, the Gironde region (which includes Bordeaux) will see thousands of acres of vines removed.
Valiantly battling these economic headwinds, well over one hundred Bordeaux wineries visited Los Angeles recently, previewing their 2023 vintage. Folks who attended tasted hundreds of wines that the various chateaux offered prior to them being bottled for sale. Terry and I have gladly attended at least six of these Union Grands Crus events. Here were some of our favorites.
Two of our repeat favorites of white Bordeaux producers are Domaine de Chevalier and Ch. Smith Haut Lafitte, both of which hail from the Pessac-Leognan region.
Consisting of 70% sauvignon blanc and 30% semillon, Chevalier’s white exudes delightful stone fruit and grass aromas. The tastes range from stone to slate to citrus to peach. Extremely well-balanced, this winner features a long, tasty finish. Their red (63% cabernet sauvignon and 30% merlot) was very smooth and round, with a strawberry and baking spices bouquet. Despite being less than 3 years old, this red is approachable now.
Smith Haut Lafitte’s white is 90% sauvignon blanc with a reticent nose and stone and gravel on the palate. While always enjoyable, it was not the hit (at least for now) that Chevalier offered. Their red (with a similar mix to that of Chevalier) had notes of dark raspberry and chocolate in its nose. The tannins were present but not so overwhelming that you couldn’t enjoy the well-balanced flavors of cherry, earth and baking spices.
Of the merlot-based wines from Saint-Emilion, two of our favorites were Ch. Valandraud and Ch. Pavie Macquin. The Valandraud had aromas of berry, strawberry and cherry. The tastes matched the aromas along with some notes of chocolate. Overall, well-balanced but give it an hour or more to open up. I really liked the Pavie. I was tasting bright berries that were mellow, along with coconut and leather. Give both of these at least five years, and they will delight then.
Margaux highlights included Ch. Giscours and Ch. Lascombes. Giscours is a blend of 69% cabernet sauvignon and 25% merlot; Lascombes has 48% of both cabernet sauvignon and merlot. Both Terry and I noted how well-balanced the Giscours is and how mild the tannins are, along with the berry and leather tastes. Terry described the Lascombes as having a “black velvet” nose. Very smooth, with tastes of cherry, berry, and currant.
From Pauillac, we enjoyed Ch. Clerc Milon, a blend of 54% cabernet sauvignon and 35% merlot. Terry got a hint of licorice along with berry and cherry. As she said, “Great finish, long, balanced tannins that means it will age well.”
And we conclude our highlights with a little gem from Pomerol, a find called Ch. Petit-Village, consisting of 65% merlot, 20% cabernet Franc and 15% cabernet Sauvignon. I found the fruit to be very up front, with a beautiful bouquet of cassis and forest floor. While it is a powerful wine (read, rather tannic), give it time and you can see the structure and great flavor this wine has to offer.
Now, while things are a little tight for the wine trade, remember that the Romans, back around the time of Christ, started making wine in Bordeaux. Wine production has continued since then, so I anticipate that, despite these challenging times, Bordeaux will carry on into the foreseeable future.
Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker. He is certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust at Level II with distinction.
