Carl Kanowsky | Tasting in the Stags Leap AVA 

Carl Kanowsky on Wine
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American Viticultural Areas, or AVAs, have been around since 1980. Originally under the purview of the Bureau of Alcohol, Tobacco, and Firearms, AVAs are now governed by the Alcohol and Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau. According to the TTB, “An AVA is a specific type of appellation of origin used on wine labels. An AVA is a delimited grape-growing region with specific geographic or climatic features that distinguish it from the surrounding regions and affect how grapes are grown.” 

Some of the tastings at Napa Premiere were organized under a specific AVA. Atlas Peak is one I’ve already discussed. Another is Stags Leap AVA, not to be confused with the individual wineries with the words “Stags Leap” in their names. 

The winery, Cliff Lede, hosted the next stop on my Napa Premiere journey. A lovely destination just off the Silverado Trail, you enter the reception area and then take stairs down to the wine making area. Several wineries were pouring both the wines to be auctioned that coming Saturday night, along with other offerings available from that particular winery. 

I see these preview tastings as serving two purposes. The first is to sample each winery’s auction wine in an environment more relaxed and personal than the big barrel tasting happening Friday morning.  

The other purpose, perhaps to be a bit crass, serves each winery’s commercial interests. During Premiere Week, the wineries have the opportunity of showcasing their wares to hundreds of wholesale buyers. By pouring samples of wines besides those to be auctioned, the wineries hopefully can entice these wholesale buyers to become customers. 

Pine Ridge took advantage of this unique opportunity by pouring from magnum its Stags Leap District 2014 Cabernet Sauvignon. By doing this, Pine Ridge bypassed all of the challenges of offering younger vintage wines, challenges such as heavy tannins and reluctant bouquets. After sampling the 2014, I am now on a mission to acquire as many bottles of it as I can. The highlights were the enticing and inviting bouquet of forest floor, mint and eucalyptus. This is not some senior citizen on the down slope. It has lots of life left. The flavors of dark fruit, caramel, thick, strong coffee, and cedar draw you in.  

Pine Ridge also poured the 2014’s baby daughter, the 2023 vintage of the same wine. You can detect the same characteristics as the 2014, but you also realize that it needs more time. 

Another tasty find was Chimney Rock’s 2023 Tomahawk Unfiltered Cabernet Sauvignon, also from the Stag Leap’s District. Winemaker Elizabeth Vianna proudly poured me a sample. Despite being a mere child, this wine hits with an impact. Ruby in color, with hesitant aromas of dark raspberries, the most prominent taste to me was dark chocolate. I love dark chocolate’s mature, multi-dimensional tastes. The wine was a delight, tempting me to try some of its older siblings to see what the future holds for it. 

Local Tasting to Benefit Boys & Girls Club 

Big Local News! The Santa Clarita Valley Boys & Girls Club is having another wine tasting! It’s on Wednesday, April 23, at Salt Creek Grille. Returning as the featured winemaker is Adam Lee, the former owner of acclaimed pinot noir house, Siduri.  

Adam and his wife and fellow winemaker, Moret Brealynn, will be pouring seven or eight of their best wines from their new wineries, paired with dishes crafted by Salt Creek to marry well with the wine being poured. All proceeds benefit the Santa Clarita Valley Boys & Girls Club. Go to the club’s website to buy tickets. Hope to see you there.  

Tickets ($125) for the SCV Boys & Girls Club’s “Sip & Support” tasting event are available at scvbgc.org/special-events. 

Carl Kanowsky is an attorney, a fledgling baker, an enthusiastic cook and an expert wine drinker. He is certified by the Wine & Spirit Education Trust at Level II with distinction.  

 Elizabeth Vianna, Chimney Rock’s winemaker. Photo courtesy of Carl Kanowsky.
Elizabeth Vianna, Chimney Rock’s winemaker. Photo courtesy of Carl Kanowsky.

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